WEDNESDAY, July 16
I took an early morning walk alone along the beach in Tel Aviv. Just across from our hotel was the Dolphinarium, the site where 21 innocents were killed by a terrorist outside the disco in January of 2001. Most of them were young Russian immigrants simply looking to enjo
y the Tel Aviv night life. Even more moving than the official somber monument carved out of a triangular stone, was the informal marker put up nearby. Built of welded steel formed into the shape of a young boy and girl painted blue and white, it says simply: Lo Nofsim Lirkod – “We will not stop dancing.”
We met together at the hotel for breakfast – and an amazing Israeli breakfast it was. Everyone commented on the variety and quality of the buffet. After breakfast be boarded the bus and began our journey north, for our first full day together.
Before we could leave Tel Aviv, we gathered at Rabin Square, the site of the assassination of Israeli Prime Minister Yitzchak Rabin in 1995. Doron told us the story of that day, both historically and from his own perspective, as someone who as present in the audience, singing the “Song of Peace” along with Rabin and all the artists who were there encouraging him to continue in his quest for peace. Doron remembers the shock for himself and for the nation on that awful day. We gathered around the memorial, a series of broken cobblestones frozen the action of being lifted into sky, as if a by giant earthquake. There beside the monument, is a wall full of graffiti and peace placards, encased behind protective Plexiglas, dominated by the word Selicha, “Forgive us.” There, beside the busy street, we said Kaddish for the man who was lost and for the peace process that had been derailed – exactly the aim of his assassin.
We noted that exactly at the moment we were at the monument, the Israeli government was exchanging soldiers remains and prisoners with Hezbollah at the Israeli-Lebanese border. These lost Israeli fighters were home at last, to be buried in peace.
Traveling north along the Mediterranean shoreline we saw all the new developments that have stretched out past Tel Aviv. The Israeli economy is booming and real estate development is thriving. High rises and luxury homes line the beach front.
We came to Caesarea, the city that during the time of Herod and beyond was the site of luxury Roman and Jewish living. The waves of the Mediterranean crashed on the ancient stone of the city – a city built by Herod as a tribute to his Caesar. Doron explained the many layers of this ancient city’s past, using layers of hats on Jenny’s head. Visually, quite effective and she looked smashing as well.
We saw ancient mosaics, the massive Hippodrome in which horse races took place, and the Stadium where Roman plays are being replaced by rock concerts – one was being set up while were visiting.
We continued our journey North, stopping for lunch of quite tasty falafel (while some checked out the Israeli McDonald’s). Our next stop was in the Zippori National Park, the site where Rabbi Yehuda Hanassi completed the Mishna and where an archeological dig is still in process. There they had a wonderful display of an ancient synagogue whose floor was covered with an early Roman style mosaic – featuring the astrological zodiac, something that later rabbinic writings would have made to seem impossible in a synagogue. Nearby was a beautifully preserved Roman house whose breathtaking floor mosaic was strikingly sophisticated.
Soon we arrived at the Kibbutz K’far Blum. Only a few miles from the Lebanon border, K’far Blum is a presence in the upper Galilee. After today’s news of the prisoner exchange with Hezbollah, we are aware of how close we are to Lebanon. The confirmed deaths of Ehud Goldwasser and Eldad Regev weighs on us. No one knows what will happen next.
I took an early morning walk alone along the beach in Tel Aviv. Just across from our hotel was the Dolphinarium, the site where 21 innocents were killed by a terrorist outside the disco in January of 2001. Most of them were young Russian immigrants simply looking to enjo
y the Tel Aviv night life. Even more moving than the official somber monument carved out of a triangular stone, was the informal marker put up nearby. Built of welded steel formed into the shape of a young boy and girl painted blue and white, it says simply: Lo Nofsim Lirkod – “We will not stop dancing.”We met together at the hotel for breakfast – and an amazing Israeli breakfast it was. Everyone commented on the variety and quality of the buffet. After breakfast be boarded the bus and began our journey north, for our first full day together.
Before we could leave Tel Aviv, we gathered at Rabin Square, the site of the assassination of Israeli Prime Minister Yitzchak Rabin in 1995. Doron told us the story of that day, both historically and from his own perspective, as someone who as present in the audience, singing the “Song of Peace” along with Rabin and all the artists who were there encouraging him to continue in his quest for peace. Doron remembers the shock for himself and for the nation on that awful day. We gathered around the memorial, a series of broken cobblestones frozen the action of being lifted into sky, as if a by giant earthquake. There beside the monument, is a wall full of graffiti and peace placards, encased behind protective Plexiglas, dominated by the word Selicha, “Forgive us.” There, beside the busy street, we said Kaddish for the man who was lost and for the peace process that had been derailed – exactly the aim of his assassin.
We noted that exactly at the moment we were at the monument, the Israeli government was exchanging soldiers remains and prisoners with Hezbollah at the Israeli-Lebanese border. These lost Israeli fighters were home at last, to be buried in peace.
Traveling north along the Mediterranean shoreline we saw all the new developments that have stretched out past Tel Aviv. The Israeli economy is booming and real estate development is thriving. High rises and luxury homes line the beach front.
We came to Caesarea, the city that during the time of Herod and beyond was the site of luxury Roman and Jewish living. The waves of the Mediterranean crashed on the ancient stone of the city – a city built by Herod as a tribute to his Caesar. Doron explained the many layers of this ancient city’s past, using layers of hats on Jenny’s head. Visually, quite effective and she looked smashing as well.
We saw ancient mosaics, the massive Hippodrome in which horse races took place, and the Stadium where Roman plays are being replaced by rock concerts – one was being set up while were visiting.
We continued our journey North, stopping for lunch of quite tasty falafel (while some checked out the Israeli McDonald’s). Our next stop was in the Zippori National Park, the site where Rabbi Yehuda Hanassi completed the Mishna and where an archeological dig is still in process. There they had a wonderful display of an ancient synagogue whose floor was covered with an early Roman style mosaic – featuring the astrological zodiac, something that later rabbinic writings would have made to seem impossible in a synagogue. Nearby was a beautifully preserved Roman house whose breathtaking floor mosaic was strikingly sophisticated.
Soon we arrived at the Kibbutz K’far Blum. Only a few miles from the Lebanon border, K’far Blum is a presence in the upper Galilee. After today’s news of the prisoner exchange with Hezbollah, we are aware of how close we are to Lebanon. The confirmed deaths of Ehud Goldwasser and Eldad Regev weighs on us. No one knows what will happen next.
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