We began the day encountering the realities of Reform Judaism in Israel. After a brief walk from our hotel, we came to Merkaz Shimson, the headquarters for the World Union for Progressive Judaism. There we met Iri Kessel, the Executive Director of the Israel Movement for Progressive Judaism. Along with Hebrew Union College these are the major institutions of Reform Judaism here in Israel and around the world. Iri told us about the challenges and opportunities for Reform in Israel, taking us on a guided tour of the newest and oldest congregations here. In many ways Reform seems like it should be a natural fit to most Israelis, since 80% of the Jewish population considers itself secular but also wants to be Jewishly connected. They are eagerly embracing progressive ideas like religious Bat Mitzvah ceremonies.
From there we spent a very meaningful few hours at Yad Vashem, the Israeli Holocaust museum. It is a most moving experience. We began with Doron sharing his personal family connection to the Holocaust through his uncle, and a reminder that most Israelis have an ambivalent attitude to the Shoah. They are saddened by the history but also focused on the need to fight for survival.
We began by moving through the incredible Children’s Memorial, a simple but moving experience of infinitely reflected candles and the sound of children’s names and ages at death, memorialized the million children who were slain by the Nazis.
From there we came to the main exhibition. The building itself is slashed into the ground, and leads you on a painful, winding journey – from the rise of the Nazi party, to the imposition of Anti-Semitic laws, to the Concentration Camps, the Final Solution, the ultimate defeat of the Nazis and the Liberation of the camps. After an emotional two hours we emerged from underground into the brilliant light of the Israeli day with a spectacular view of the hills of Jerusalem. Just as design of the building intended we were reminded of the hope that modern state of Israel provides as a protection for the Jews today.
We were mostly silent and drained when we emerged. From there we walked quietly to the Valley of the Communities, the standing stone maze, shaped roughly like the 
map of Europe, where all the lost Jewish communities are commemorated. There, under the stone which honors Hungarian communities, including my mother’s home town of Sharvar, we held a brief ceremony honoring the dead. I mentioned that Jewish tradition honors silence as a proper response to tragedy, and so we wandered individually through the massive memorial in silence.
Then it was time to ascend from the depths. Yad Vashem is intentionally built in a valley. Beside it is Mt. Hertzl, the Israeli national cemetery where - much like Arlington National Cemetery in Washington, DC - soldiers and political heads of state are honored. It is a beautiful and uplifting tree-lined cemetery. We stood at the graves of Prime Ministers Golda Meir and Levi Eshkol, and came to the very beautiful gravestone of Yitzchak Rabin and his wife Leah. Having stood at the site of his assassination a few days ago, it felt somehow comforting to be at his grave and know that he is not forgotten.
Throughout our visit to Israel we have been in many of the same places at the same time as a very interesting group of fellow travelers. We have seen many Birthright groups along the way, but this was a group of parents of young people who had previously been on Birthright trips. It was called “Let My Parents Come.” While we were in the Mt. Herzl cemetery we saw this group whom we have come to know being interviewed about their experiences here. It has been very meaningful to them to walk in the footsteps not only of the Prophets, but of their children as well.
We ended the day with Doron sharing very moving stories of friends he has lost from the army. It is a reminder when we see these stones, that every soldier had a name and loved ones and story unique to them. As we had seen with the tragic story of the prisoner exchange that took place while we were here, Israeli society takes its commitment to the war dead very seriously. We felt that sense of honoring there and of a dream that children of the future will not be lost to war.
No comments:
Post a Comment