SATURDAY, July 26, 2008-07-26
My morning walk was not quite as early as usually – got a bit more of Sabbath rest. But the early morning sun was still glowing golden and reflecting off the Jerusalem stone that lines every building. In that very special morning light we see why Jerusalem is the city of gold.
I took a walk that I had never done before, down past the beautiful overlook of Yamin Moshe and the Cinemateque into the valley of Nehon. There is a new promenade being build around the Wolfson Gardens that leads down below the Arab section of Abu Tor. From there I walk down around the hill and look up from the valley to see Ir David, the City of David – the original site of Jerusalem and now an Arab village, and above it the ancient city walls with the Al Aska Mosque high above. The Arab village of Silawan flowed to the right of me. I was struck by the differences between the Jewish and Arab sections of Jerusalem. And also reminded of the rich and varied history of this place. According to tradition I was looking at the path that Abraham and Isaac walked in silence as the father was contemplating sacrificing his only son to the One God.
Later in the morning, I took a small group to the Jerusalem Great Synagogue to hear the incomparable Cantor Naftali Hershtick. The contrast between last night’s raucous and lively service and the the stately and dignified service here was striking. In the beautiful marble-lined sanctuary of this central synagogue, the cantor’s voice lifted me and filled me. There are a few cantor’s voice literally sends shivers through me. One of them I am married to and Ida Rae’s voice stops me every time and makes me look inward to realize what it means to be alive and fortunate enough to experience this moment. Cantor Hershtick is the other person who can do the same. With no electronic amplification, his voice fills the space with an ethereal quality. The men’s choir, conducted by Raymond Goldstein, supports him with beautiful and rich harmonies.
We were very fortunate this Shabbat, because it is the one before Rosh Hosdesh, the new month which begins next Shabbat. A very special prayer was added to this service, Chadesh Alyanu, which prays for a month of health and happiness. And, as the Torah was returned to the ark we heard the cantor gently and with deep meaning sing in sotto voice “Return, O Lord! You who are Israel’s myriads of thousands” (Num. 10). Standing before the massive open ark, the cantor’s powerful and whispered voice stirred me beyond description. I am completely full.
But the Shabbat joy continued.
I decided to take a walk to the Old City to say farewell to the Kotel. After a fifteen minute walk from the hotel I entered through the Zion gate into the Armenian Quarter. A few minutes later I was in the Jewish Quarter winding my way through it clean and hushed street as if the Old City itself were observing Shabbat.
The path to the Kotel is quite beautiful with its remarkable overlook near the Porat Yosef Yeshiva. As always my heart began to beat faster as I enter the Kotel plaza itself. At the Wall I again opened my heart and let the true prayers come forth quietly, for my family whom I miss so much.
After my private moment I wandered into the tunneled area which opens from the men’s section. There was a prayer service going on and I observed from the rear. It happened that I arrived just as a call was going out for Kohens, decedents of the High Priests, to come and bless the community. I could not resist. And there I stood, barefoot, in a borrowed tallit covering my head, standing before an ark which was resting against the Western Wall itself. With two other Kohanim, I turned to the congregation and offered the Priestly Benediction, as I had done many times before with my father and my brother. I felt my father’s blessed presence there I stood repeating those sacred words in that sacred place. As I blessed the worshipers, it was truly I that was being blessed. Now I am embraced. Now I can carry that blessing home. Now I can say farewell.
My morning walk was not quite as early as usually – got a bit more of Sabbath rest. But the early morning sun was still glowing golden and reflecting off the Jerusalem stone that lines every building. In that very special morning light we see why Jerusalem is the city of gold.
I took a walk that I had never done before, down past the beautiful overlook of Yamin Moshe and the Cinemateque into the valley of Nehon. There is a new promenade being build around the Wolfson Gardens that leads down below the Arab section of Abu Tor. From there I walk down around the hill and look up from the valley to see Ir David, the City of David – the original site of Jerusalem and now an Arab village, and above it the ancient city walls with the Al Aska Mosque high above. The Arab village of Silawan flowed to the right of me. I was struck by the differences between the Jewish and Arab sections of Jerusalem. And also reminded of the rich and varied history of this place. According to tradition I was looking at the path that Abraham and Isaac walked in silence as the father was contemplating sacrificing his only son to the One God.
Later in the morning, I took a small group to the Jerusalem Great Synagogue to hear the incomparable Cantor Naftali Hershtick. The contrast between last night’s raucous and lively service and the the stately and dignified service here was striking. In the beautiful marble-lined sanctuary of this central synagogue, the cantor’s voice lifted me and filled me. There are a few cantor’s voice literally sends shivers through me. One of them I am married to and Ida Rae’s voice stops me every time and makes me look inward to realize what it means to be alive and fortunate enough to experience this moment. Cantor Hershtick is the other person who can do the same. With no electronic amplification, his voice fills the space with an ethereal quality. The men’s choir, conducted by Raymond Goldstein, supports him with beautiful and rich harmonies.
We were very fortunate this Shabbat, because it is the one before Rosh Hosdesh, the new month which begins next Shabbat. A very special prayer was added to this service, Chadesh Alyanu, which prays for a month of health and happiness. And, as the Torah was returned to the ark we heard the cantor gently and with deep meaning sing in sotto voice “Return, O Lord! You who are Israel’s myriads of thousands” (Num. 10). Standing before the massive open ark, the cantor’s powerful and whispered voice stirred me beyond description. I am completely full.
But the Shabbat joy continued.
I decided to take a walk to the Old City to say farewell to the Kotel. After a fifteen minute walk from the hotel I entered through the Zion gate into the Armenian Quarter. A few minutes later I was in the Jewish Quarter winding my way through it clean and hushed street as if the Old City itself were observing Shabbat.
The path to the Kotel is quite beautiful with its remarkable overlook near the Porat Yosef Yeshiva. As always my heart began to beat faster as I enter the Kotel plaza itself. At the Wall I again opened my heart and let the true prayers come forth quietly, for my family whom I miss so much.
After my private moment I wandered into the tunneled area which opens from the men’s section. There was a prayer service going on and I observed from the rear. It happened that I arrived just as a call was going out for Kohens, decedents of the High Priests, to come and bless the community. I could not resist. And there I stood, barefoot, in a borrowed tallit covering my head, standing before an ark which was resting against the Western Wall itself. With two other Kohanim, I turned to the congregation and offered the Priestly Benediction, as I had done many times before with my father and my brother. I felt my father’s blessed presence there I stood repeating those sacred words in that sacred place. As I blessed the worshipers, it was truly I that was being blessed. Now I am embraced. Now I can carry that blessing home. Now I can say farewell.
It is time to leave Jerusalem and leave Israel. Our group has become a bit smaller as the Desmonds and the Fingers have other travel arraignments.
We gathered in a beautiful restaurant called The Colony near the German Colony for a lovely dinner and some sweet reminisces of our time together. We toasted Doron and the trip over Washington State wine – a reminder of home.From there our bus took us to the Tayelet, the Hass Promenade overlooking the Old City for a farewell service. I told the group that this was the spot at which I had proposed to Ida Rae 19 years ago, after a Havdallah ceremony. That time I had only three matches which promptly blew out – this time, I was prepared with a whole box of matches!
We began the Havdallah ceremony, the ritual farewell to Shabbat which divides Koshesh from Chol – the holiness of the Sabbath from the ordinariness of the week. I noted that we were also separating – from the Holiness of Israel to the full lives we lead back home. And just as Havdallah is intended to remind us of holiness throughout our week, so this service was to remind us to keep the holiness of Israel in our daily lives.
But I had not counted on the wind.
Several matches were immediately blown out and it looked like our braided Havdallah candle would never be lit. Fortunately for us, a group of Israeli soldiers were standing by us and quickly intervened with an official – Tzahal approved, Israeli Army cigarette lighter. In an operation worthy of the training from the finest army in the world, our new friends made sure our light would not go out.I am sure glad those handsome guys weren’t there when I proposed to Ida. She would never have said yes!
And, as if to say that our homeland did not want to say goodbye just yet, I saw outside our circle a young lady, Sarah Fredman, who lived across the street from us in New Rochelle and often took care of my kids. Sarah was studying in Jerusalem and just happened to pass by as we were finishing our Havdallah. Just another of those wonderful Israel coincidences.
After a teary farewell at the airport, we said goodbye to our guide Doron who had shared so many wonderful stories and experiences with us. At long last, it was time to return home.We will hold on to the memories of this extraordinary adventure. My prayer for all those who participated, is that they deepen their connection to the Jewish people, to the Temple and to the Land of Israel.
Lehitraot! Until we see you again!
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