Shabbat and Shalom

SATURDAY, July 26, 2008-07-26

My morning walk was not quite as early as usually – got a bit more of Sabbath rest. But the early morning sun was still glowing golden and reflecting off the Jerusalem stone that lines every building. In that very special morning light we see why Jerusalem is the city of gold.

I took a walk that I had never done before, down past the beautiful overlook of Yamin Moshe and the Cinemateque into the valley of Nehon. There is a new promenade being build around the Wolfson Gardens that leads down below the Arab section of Abu Tor. From there I walk down around the hill and look up from the valley to see Ir David, the City of David – the original site of Jerusalem and now an Arab village, and above it the ancient city walls with the Al Aska Mosque high above. The Arab village of Silawan flowed to the right of me. I was struck by the differences between the Jewish and Arab sections of Jerusalem. And also reminded of the rich and varied history of this place. According to tradition I was looking at the path that Abraham and Isaac walked in silence as the father was contemplating sacrificing his only son to the One God.

Later in the morning, I took a small group to the Jerusalem Great Synagogue to hear the incomparable Cantor Naftali Hershtick. The contrast between last night’s raucous and lively service and the the stately and dignified service here was striking. In the beautiful marble-lined sanctuary of this central synagogue, the cantor’s voice lifted me and filled me. There are a few cantor’s voice literally sends shivers through me. One of them I am married to and Ida Rae’s voice stops me every time and makes me look inward to realize what it means to be alive and fortunate enough to experience this moment. Cantor Hershtick is the other person who can do the same. With no electronic amplification, his voice fills the space with an ethereal quality. The men’s choir, conducted by Raymond Goldstein, supports him with beautiful and rich harmonies.

We were very fortunate this Shabbat, because it is the one before Rosh Hosdesh, the new month which begins next Shabbat. A very special prayer was added to this service, Chadesh Alyanu, which prays for a month of health and happiness. And, as the Torah was returned to the ark we heard the cantor gently and with deep meaning sing in sotto voice “Return, O Lord! You who are Israel’s myriads of thousands” (Num. 10). Standing before the massive open ark, the cantor’s powerful and whispered voice stirred me beyond description. I am completely full.

But the Shabbat joy continued.

I decided to take a walk to the Old City to say farewell to the Kotel. After a fifteen minute walk from the hotel I entered through the Zion gate into the Armenian Quarter. A few minutes later I was in the Jewish Quarter winding my way through it clean and hushed street as if the Old City itself were observing Shabbat.

The path to the Kotel is quite beautiful with its remarkable overlook near the Porat Yosef Yeshiva. As always my heart began to beat faster as I enter the Kotel plaza itself. At the Wall I again opened my heart and let the true prayers come forth quietly, for my family whom I miss so much.
After my private moment I wandered into the tunneled area which opens from the men’s section. There was a prayer service going on and I observed from the rear. It happened that I arrived just as a call was going out for Kohens, decedents of the High Priests, to come and bless the community. I could not resist. And there I stood, barefoot, in a borrowed tallit covering my head, standing before an ark which was resting against the Western Wall itself. With two other Kohanim, I turned to the congregation and offered the Priestly Benediction, as I had done many times before with my father and my brother. I felt my father’s blessed presence there I stood repeating those sacred words in that sacred place. As I blessed the worshipers, it was truly I that was being blessed. Now I am embraced. Now I can carry that blessing home. Now I can say farewell.

It is time to leave Jerusalem and leave Israel. Our group has become a bit smaller as the Desmonds and the Fingers have other travel arraignments.

We gathered in a beautiful restaurant called The Colony near the German Colony for a lovely dinner and some sweet reminisces of our time together. We toasted Doron and the trip over Washington State wine – a reminder of home.

From there our bus took us to the Tayelet, the Hass Promenade overlooking the Old City for a farewell service. I told the group that this was the spot at which I had proposed to Ida Rae 19 years ago, after a Havdallah ceremony. That time I had only three matches which promptly blew out – this time, I was prepared with a whole box of matches!

We began the Havdallah ceremony, the ritual farewell to Shabbat which divides Koshesh from Chol – the holiness of the Sabbath from the ordinariness of the week. I noted that we were also separating – from the Holiness of Israel to the full lives we lead back home. And just as Havdallah is intended to remind us of holiness throughout our week, so this service was to remind us to keep the holiness of Israel in our daily lives.

But I had not counted on the wind.

Several matches were immediately blown out and it looked like our braided Havdallah candle would never be lit. Fortunately for us, a group of Israeli soldiers were standing by us and quickly intervened with an official – Tzahal approved, Israeli Army cigarette lighter. In an operation worthy of the training from the finest army in the world, our new friends made sure our light would not go out.

I am sure glad those handsome guys weren’t there when I proposed to Ida. She would never have said yes!

And, as if to say that our homeland did not want to say goodbye just yet, I saw outside our circle a young lady, Sarah Fredman, who lived across the street from us in New Rochelle and often took care of my kids. Sarah was studying in Jerusalem and just happened to pass by as we were finishing our Havdallah. Just another of those wonderful Israel coincidences.

After a teary farewell at the airport, we said goodbye to our guide Doron who had shared so many wonderful stories and experiences with us. At long last, it was time to return home.

We will hold on to the memories of this extraordinary adventure. My prayer for all those who participated, is that they deepen their connection to the Jewish people, to the Temple and to the Land of Israel.

Lehitraot! Until we see you again!

Masada to Jerusalem

FRIDAY, July 24, 2008

4:30 am – well before the first rays of sun as a warm breeze swept over the Dead Sea bearing its unique sulfur smell to us, we left our hotel and traveled north along the shore of the sea to Masada. Our group had divided into two: those who wanted to hike the famous “snake path” to the top of the mountain fortress, and those who wanted to take the later cable care which only began operating at 8 am.

About 12 of us began the hike, already joined by a number of other tours, making our way in the semi-dark up the narrow path. The snake path is well named for it twists and turns its way up along two kilometers rising to a heath of 350 meters. According to sign there are some 700 steps along the way – a nice morning workout!

The morning grew brighter as we ascended and we could see our way up the mountain. We could feel what it must have been like to defend the fortress, how useful it was to be able to limit access and see who was coming long before they ascended. In the end it did not save the last defenders of the site, but still – we felt watched.

We arrived at the top of Masada, a bit winded but proud of ourselves for our efforts. And as a reward, we watched a breathtaking sunrise over the Dead Sea. There is nothing quite like that profound and yet perfectly ordinary moment when the burst of light from the sun’s rounded surface breaks over the Jordanian mountains and causes the Dead Sea to shimmer and sparkle like it had been rudely awakened from a pleasant nap. To see the ancient walls of Masada in that new morning light raised our spirits and gave hope to the future.

It is a bit ironic to speak of hope at Masada, ultimately a site of defeat and martyrdom. Beginning with the northern terrace overlooking the majestic desert mountains, we toured the ruins of Harod’s ancient palace. Doron told us the story of Masada’s founding as a desert retreat for the master builder of Jerusalem, through its various incarnations. Eventually as we moved around the ruins we come to the story of Masada as the last holdout of the Zealots who rebelled against Rome. After the destruction of Jerusalem in 70 CE the Roman army came to this final holdout. There, as the Jewish historian Josephus tells the tale, the last 1000 or so rebel fighters and their families held off the Romans until the night before the wall was breached. That night they took their own lives rather be captured by the oppressors.

Although over the past half century or so the story has taken on mythic proportions, it is a problematic one for Jews. Zealots and rebels, martyrdom and suicide are not easy themes. The story was largely a forgotten one until it was revived in the early days of Zionist idealism as a symbol of strength of purpose and commitment even in the face of overwhelming adversity. After the Holocaust, the ideals of Jewish defense made Masada an even more potent symbol.

Today that symbolism is fading. And yet there is something majestic about Masada as a fortress in the desert, standing alone in a hostile environment and yet strong and confident and secure.

If going up the Snake Path was challenging, so was going down. The day was already warming up, although it was not yet 8 am. The path was crowded with other travelers, including a group of British teenagers, mostly from London, who where traveling on a Young Judea trip.

When my son, David, returned from his trip to Israel last year with his 8th grade class from PJA, he told me one of his favorite parts of the trip was coming down the Snake Path. At the end of the hot and difficult walk, he told me, there was a guy selling fresh squeezed orange juice. He said it was the best thing he had ever tasted. Armed with that tip, I stopped and bought myself a nice tall glass. Best 15 shekels I ever spent! Thanks, David.

As we arrived at the visitor’s center the rest of our group was arriving from the hotel. Doron, madman that he is, took this group up to Masada on the cable care and there he gave his second tour of the day. We walkers had a late breakfast (courtesy of the hotel) and a bit of a rest as we waited for the whole group to reunite.

It was a long morning, but very worthwhile.

Leaving Masada we continued our journey North along the Dead Sea shore until we came to Ein Gedi, the beautiful spring mentioned in the Bible. An oasis in the desert. After a brief hike we came to one of the three waterfalls that make up the spring. Quickly we were in the water and deeply refreshed from our morning hike as we let the waterfall crash down on our heads. The pool was full not only of the cool spring water, but also of a group of Moroccan Jewish teenagers who were also traveling in Israel. They told us there are about 2000 Jews left in Morocco so it was fascinating to see them there in Israel.

About an hour later we were back in Jerusalem checking into our hotel for some much-needed rest. I took a walk into Machane Yehuda, the Jewish Market, which was bustling in preperation for Shabbat. I met my cousins there: Tzipi, Zahava and Yankele, for a nice lunch.

As Shabbat approached we joined Doron at the congregation where he worships: Yakar in the Talpiyot section. Yakar is a fascinating community. It is a strictly Orthodox congregation with a separation between men and women. The services were lively and filled with singing, many tunes of Sholmo Carlbach, many original.

There are two parallel services at Yakar. The downstairs, while lively, is staid in comparison to the upstairs. It is a much younger crowd in the upper service, and although there is a separation between the men and woman, it is a curtain down the middle of the room with many breaks and not difficult for a tall person to peer over. There are not seats in the room and it is packed to overflowing. The singing was loud, raucous and joyful – and in truth the women were not only clearly heard, they were really leading the singing. Doron tells us that this upstairs minyan is known as the “pick-up” place for young, single Modern Orthodox Israelis looking to get married. There certainly was a lot of tension in the air, and a lot of joy. Although many of the group had difficulty following the service, we all left singing.

After a lovely walk back to the hotel through the hushed streets of Jerusalem, we joined for very nice Shabbat dinner. After our own singing and talking we noted that this was our final Shabbat together, and even had to say farewell to some of our group who are traveling back separately. Tom and Susie are on a different flight leaving earlier than we and the Fingers are continuing on in their journey.

Sea to Sea and Desert

THURSDAY, July 24, 2008

Our morning was free in Eilat. Many of us found time to walk on the boardwalk or swim in the Red Sea. We were all struck by how full the hotels were, and how few foreign tourists there were. Eilat is the vacation spot for Israeli families and there were kids and young people everyone.

After a long walk along Eilat’s beaches, I was able to spend time with my cousin and aunt. It is lovely to reconnect with family whom we see so seldom.

We were on the road north before noon, traveling up the Aravah, the desert region that reaches from the Eilat to the Dead Sea. To me, it is one of the most majestic and demanding regions of Israel which soaring cliffs and rugged terrain unlike anything I have seen elsewhere. The area is sparsely inhabited with only a few Kibbutzim, including the oldest, Yotvata, and the Conservative movement’s kibbutz Ketura as well as the Reform Movement’s two kibbutzim: Yael and Lotan. We stopped at Lotan to see visit one of our Reform Kibbutzim.

After lunch at the Kibbutz we began our tour. Member David Schoenveld was our guide. David told us about the kibbutz’s commitment to environmental living and Reform Jewish Zionist values. Here they teach and they live a commitment to the Earth and our stewardship of it. Out of the harsh environment – the Arava is one of the driest areas on Earth and the temperature when we were visiting was 104 degrees Fahrenheit – community has created an agricultural wonder. They export dates to much of the Arab world and provide dairy milk for the products produced at Yotvata.

But it is to environmentally conscious living that Lotan is dedicated. We toured the “Bustan Neighborhood” the kibbutz has built; a set of adobe huts built igloo style although supported by a metal geodesic dome and covered in mud and straw. We toured the surprisingly cool interior of one of these huts and watched as workers and volunteers worked on two new huts. As they describe it the neighborhood "combines natural building, green energy, water saving techniques, organic edible gardening, education, permaculture design and common sense." David also told us of the “Green Apprenticeship” program the kibbutz has which offers college level credits for work on environmental studies.

David also showed us a project JNF has initiated to create an artificial wetland in the desert. He noted that one of the primary bird migratory routes between Africa and Europe passes over Israel and the wetlands around Eilat were a bird resting place. Much of those wetlands are lost now to development, so there is experimental work to create artificial marshes in the desert. These are also being used to filter the wastewater of the kibbutz for reuse.

Our visit to Lotan was short but very inspiring.

From Lotan we continue north to the Dead Sea. Along the way we noticed the very low levels of the southern sea and all the mining that is taking place there.

Our hotel at the Dead Sea, the Daniel, is one of the nicest we have visited so far. We checked in and quickly changed and hiked a short distance to the Dead Sea itself. There we laughed and floated, as one is supposed to do. The minerals felt oily on our skin but we left with a bit of a glow – and some Dead Sea Salt to take home.
After a sumptious buffet dinner in the hotel, we turned in for an early evening. Many of us are preparing for a very early morning hike up the “snake path” to see the sun rise from the plain of Massada.

Strange Lands: Jordan and Petra

WEDNESDAY, JULY 23, 2008

We left the safety of Israel today, crossing the border into strange territory. From the city of Eilat where we stayed last night, we arose early in the morning to cross into the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. This strikes me as so strange – I can remember when Jordan was the enemy, when Jordanian snipers were regularly firing into the Jewish section of Jerusalem from the walls of the Old City. The Six Day War changed that and even more profoundly was the peace treaty signed with Jordan. Not the cold peace that Israel has with Egypt but a warm, lively and trading peace between the neighboring countries of Israel and Jordan. A peace that is good for everyone. What a model this can be!

Crossing into Jordan from Eilat was no more difficult than crossing from Texas into Mexico. After some passport control (I am always a bit of a challenge since I carry an Israeli and US passport – my father was born in Israel and I accepted citizenship on my first trip as a child), we were met on the Jordanian side by our guide Kaliq.

Kaliq was warm, friendly and very knowledgeable. He is a US Citizen and much of his family is in Miami. Kaliq spoke with obvious pride about the successes his country has had and the ways in which it stands out in the Muslim world, particularly in its (nearly?) equal status of women. We found all the Jordanians we met to be very friendly.

Jordan, he told us, is a country of 6 million, 90% Muslim and 10% Christian. It has a very young population and English is ubiquitous, thanks in part to British colonialism, a British former queen and an American current queen.

We drove for a few hours from the port city of Aqaba into a desert rather different than the Israeli desert. Most striking were large rock formations standing out like islands in a sea of sand.

We stopped at for a bit of coffee and shopping. Many from our group purchased Qaffias, the traditional Arab headdress, which turned out to be quite cool during our long walks in the desert heat.

After several hours drive we came to the city of Petra in which the famous excavations reside. As we approached, Kaliq pointed out the mountain known as Jabba el Aaron, the “Mountain of Aaron” where tradition has it that Moses brother Aaron died and is buried. At the entrance to the town there is a large rock with water flowing through it, known as Wadi Mousa, the “Spring of Moses.” Tradition has it that this is the rock Moses struck with gave water to the Children of Israel, but because Moses disobeyed God by striking and not speaking to the rock, he was punished by not being allowed into the land of Israel. It is striking to hear these biblical stories of our people recounted here.

From there we came to the ancient city of Petra. Made famous by the third Indiana Jones Movie, Petra is an amazing, large and diverse archeological site. The Nabetians, ancient traders along the spice and silk roads (same road alternate directions) created the initial sites some 2500 years ago, which subsequently had Greek and Roman influence. The name Petra is Greed for “Red Rock” perhaps a reference to the Edomites. Kaliq explained the various layers and histories of the site as we walked through valleys of tremendous rock, with carved niches for various deities along the way. The Siq is a central valley which, like a Wadi, carried flash floods at times, water that need to be collected to preserve any human presence there. Kaliq told us about a tour he had given some time ago, where they were trapped by a flash flood down the central valley which had risen to 3 meters and held them in place for 6 hours.

Petra is a UNESCO Heritage site and in 2007 was been declared one of the new Wonders of the World. When you arrive at the central structure, the so-called “Treasury” you understand why. A most magnificent Nabatian structure, the “Treasury” stands unbelievablely tall. It has many Roman influences, as our guide pointed out, but still stands as a unique monument to a dead culture. Kaliq tells how some of the site was destroyed when it was rediscovered by grave robbers and army personnel who believed the tales of this being a literal treasury. The army shot at the structure hoping that vast amounts of money would fall out. All they accomplished was a destroyed heritage site.

The rest of the site was a mixture of stunning geological formations and remarkable human engineering efforts – some of which was not so easy to distinguish from each other.

We were fortunate to be at the site of Treasury as a “Bollywood” movie was being filmed. It was fun to watch them work in this remarkable site, and watch the beautiful young stars acting their roles in the very roadway that led to India and to lucrative spices.

We were given two hours to wander the space on our own. Some shopped the ever-present Bedouin stands, some hiked up hidden trails. Some took slow, or carriage driven, paths back to the visitor’s center where we reconvened.

Exhausted from the heat and the sheer monument of our what we had seen, we stopped for lunch and then a few hours of rest as we drove back to the boarder at Aqaba.

Our guide gave us a brief tour through the new city of Aqaba, which has become quite revitalized since the peace agreement with Israel. Aqaba has become a major port and importer of a variety of goods, including fuel for Iraq.

Returning to the border with Eilat we said farewell to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. It was good to return to Israeli authority. However, I was shocked to see how Eilat has changed over the years. It is not a town with a vibrant night life virtually indistinguishable from say Miami Beach or any of a number of youth oriented beach towns. Although some in our group lamented the changes in the sleepy town of Eilat, there is something to be said for the fulfillment of the Zionist dream that calls for all the extremes of human life, including the hedonistic Eilat, under the banner of a Jewish homeland. Although I most appreciate the quiet splendor of Jerusalem, there is something to be said for the joyfulness of Jewish life without being enveloped in the desires of the self.

The Air and the Land

TUESDAY, JULY 22, 2008

It is always difficult for me to leave Jerusalem. Of course I am always comforted knowing that I will be back. This time, I will be back in just a few days.

My early morning walk took me back to Mishkanot Shananim where we had welcomed the Shabbat a few days ago. This time I watched the sun rise over the Old City and into the valley of Ghenom.

We left Jerusalem under the remarkable new bridge shaped like David’s harp. It is controversial in its strikingly modern design, but I loved it at first sight. We followed for a time the Tel Aviv-Jerusalem highway with it bombed out relief trucks destroyed during the siege of Jerusalem in 1967. The husks are maintained as a memorial to the fallen, a reminder of the price paid for the liberation of Jerusalem, and a symbol of the precariousness of that freedom.

We connected with the new Yitzkak Rabin Highway, a trans-Israel route that will one day connect the North and South directly. Doron mentioned that they are adding new sections all the time.

We began to head south, into the Negev. I love the desert and the further south we went the more I began to feel the power of the wild lands. We passed many Bedouin tents along the way, and Rahat, a Bedouin Township. Doron spoke about the increasingly strained relationship between the Israeli Jewish community and the Israeli Bedouin community, a cause of deep concern on both sides.

We also passed Kiryat Gat where Intel maintains facilities and regularly brings many Israelis to Portland. Shalom!

We came into Beersheba, which I recalled as a sleepy desert down in the northern part of the Negev. I barely recognized it from all the new construction and the lively nature of the city. Many new immigrants have made their home in Beersheba.

Our first stop was the Israel Air Force Museum which for a aviation junkie like me was pure heaven. Every plane Israel has flown is represented there, resting on the tarmac. Our guide, Shanit, told us that the modern Israeli jet fighter can travel the full length of Israel, North to South, in about 4 minutes! That is how quickly they have to respond to any danger. We left impressed with the air power Israel possesses and the dedication of those who serve.

Our journey south continued with a stop at Sde Boker, the Kibbutz where David Ben-Gurion is buried. Doron told us moving stories as we stood by the grave of Israel’s first Prime Minister and in many ways its founder. However, it was hard to concentrate because Doron was upstaged by a family of Ibex who wanted to hear the story as well.

From Sde Boker we drove a short distance to a take a breathtaking hike through the canyon at En Avdat National Park. It was a challenging climb up a steep set of stairs and even a ladder but when we got to the top and looked down into the heart of the canyon we had just climbed, we knew it was worth it. Kudos to Bill and Tom who declared themselves the “oldest guys on the hike.”

It was a day of breathtaking views as we drove into Maktesh Ramon. A Maktesh is a unique geological feature which occurs only in Israel and Sinai. It is a huge crater-like object and we were awed by its dramatic and rugged contrasts.

From there we came to Shaharut where we were met with a group of camels ready to take us on another adventure. Two to a camel and one leading, we rode the stately beasts up a rocky trail to yet another breathtaking view, this one of the Arava, the desert area below the Dead Sea, and one of my favorite parts of the Negev. Our guides gave us a tour of the camel and its unique adaptations to desert life. I love camel riding and I think we convinced a few others.

After our return we came to a lovely retreat in Shaharut which is built in Bedouin style. There we enjoyed a desert welcome to music and stories by our hosts who are Israeli drawn to the peace and retreat of the desert. After watching a remarkable sunset over the mountains and watching the stars come out under the desert sky, we understood the appeal.

We enjoyed a lovely Bedouin style meal sitting on cushions at round tables and enjoyed each other’s company and the cool night breeze.

Two personal notes:

As we were driving to the Shaharut, we learned through the Israeli news of an attack in Jerusalem. Once again it was an East Jerusalem Palestinian driver of a construction vehicle who went berserk with his machine in the street. The attack took place right by the hotel we had just left in Jerusalem. A reminder, again, of the way terrorism touches the lives of everyone.

And even more personal: as we arrived at the retreat, standing at the edge of a cliff over the deep Arava desert, I received a call telling me that CBI member and co-President of our Sisterhood, Carol Tannenbaum had died just that morning. I was shocked and saddened when I heard the news. Just before leaving for Israel, I sat with Carol who reassured me – as she did with everyone – that she would “beat this thing,” this cancer that she had fought with such courage for so long. I carried a note from her to the Western Wall and placed it with love and prayers for her. After dinner, I gathered the group together under the deep sky and infinite desert starts and told them of her passing and how just last year I had brought her to Israel and how much she loved it here. I feel her soul and her huge heart inhabit this holy place. Zichrono l’vracha, May her Memory be a blessing.

Memories and the Future

MONDAY, JULY 21, 2008

We began the day encountering the realities of Reform Judaism in Israel. After a brief walk from our hotel, we came to Merkaz Shimson, the headquarters for the World Union for Progressive Judaism. There we met Iri Kessel, the Executive Director of the Israel Movement for Progressive Judaism. Along with Hebrew Union College these are the major institutions of Reform Judaism here in Israel and around the world. Iri told us about the challenges and opportunities for Reform in Israel, taking us on a guided tour of the newest and oldest congregations here. In many ways Reform seems like it should be a natural fit to most Israelis, since 80% of the Jewish population considers itself secular but also wants to be Jewishly connected. They are eagerly embracing progressive ideas like religious Bat Mitzvah ceremonies.

From there we spent a very meaningful few hours at Yad Vashem, the Israeli Holocaust museum. It is a most moving experience. We began with Doron sharing his personal family connection to the Holocaust through his uncle, and a reminder that most Israelis have an ambivalent attitude to the Shoah. They are saddened by the history but also focused on the need to fight for survival.

We began by moving through the incredible Children’s Memorial, a simple but moving experience of infinitely reflected candles and the sound of children’s names and ages at death, memorialized the million children who were slain by the Nazis.

From there we came to the main exhibition. The building itself is slashed into the ground, and leads you on a painful, winding journey – from the rise of the Nazi party, to the imposition of Anti-Semitic laws, to the Concentration Camps, the Final Solution, the ultimate defeat of the Nazis and the Liberation of the camps. After an emotional two hours we emerged from underground into the brilliant light of the Israeli day with a spectacular view of the hills of Jerusalem. Just as design of the building intended we were reminded of the hope that modern state of Israel provides as a protection for the Jews today.

We were mostly silent and drained when we emerged. From there we walked quietly to the Valley of the Communities, the standing stone maze, shaped roughly like the map of Europe, where all the lost Jewish communities are commemorated. There, under the stone which honors Hungarian communities, including my mother’s home town of Sharvar, we held a brief ceremony honoring the dead. I mentioned that Jewish tradition honors silence as a proper response to tragedy, and so we wandered individually through the massive memorial in silence.

Then it was time to ascend from the depths. Yad Vashem is intentionally built in a valley. Beside it is Mt. Hertzl, the Israeli national cemetery where - much like Arlington National Cemetery in Washington, DC - soldiers and political heads of state are honored. It is a beautiful and uplifting tree-lined cemetery. We stood at the graves of Prime Ministers Golda Meir and Levi Eshkol, and came to the very beautiful gravestone of Yitzchak Rabin and his wife Leah. Having stood at the site of his assassination a few days ago, it felt somehow comforting to be at his grave and know that he is not forgotten.

Throughout our visit to Israel we have been in many of the same places at the same time as a very interesting group of fellow travelers. We have seen many Birthright groups along the way, but this was a group of parents of young people who had previously been on Birthright trips. It was called “Let My Parents Come.” While we were in the Mt. Herzl cemetery we saw this group whom we have come to know being interviewed about their experiences here. It has been very meaningful to them to walk in the footsteps not only of the Prophets, but of their children as well.

We ended the day with Doron sharing very moving stories of friends he has lost from the army. It is a reminder when we see these stones, that every soldier had a name and loved ones and story unique to them. As we had seen with the tragic story of the prisoner exchange that took place while we were here, Israeli society takes its commitment to the war dead very seriously. We felt that sense of honoring there and of a dream that children of the future will not be lost to war.